Bella Roma!

Hi Everyone,

It’s been a long time since we’ve made a post. I think we’re getting weary! We hope you are all well and are looking forward to seeing many of you soon.

Going back a few days now...on Sunday, we explored the Amalfi Coast, going by bus (yikes!!!) and returning by boat (ahhh!). To say this is a dramatic region, with towns clinging to the sides of cliffs and lush hills, is a vast understatement. This is a place where Turkish pirates marauded during the Dark Ages – and even as recently as a couple of hundred years ago. That threat shaped the design of the towns and the folklore.

 

We are split about the bus ride from Sorrento to Amalfi Town: I found it terrifying at the time, but ultimately a worthwhile adventure; Frank had difficulty entrusting our lives to the first driver, who passed tour buses on blind corners barely wide enough for 2 small cars. At one point, we met another bus head on and traffic in both directions came to a complete halt as the two drivers got out to survey the situation and negotiate how the problem would be solved. My introverted husband led the busload in a round of applause for the second driver when we arrived safely at our destination.

A highlight was stopping in Positano – we were there early enough that it was very quiet…for a while. It was the town’s feast day, so, unexpectedly, there was a marching band to celebrate. This video was taken about 9:30 am:

While in Positano, I had a warm conversation with a retired man who has lived around the world and says he likes “Canadians and Americans” best!

Amalfi was small, but really touristy AND a cruise ship had just unloaded its human cargo. So, following some vague directions, we walked up and over through teeny pedestrian "streets" to an even tinier town, Atrani, and had lunch there. Yum.

 

The next day, we went to Pompeii. This video, showing a 360 view from the forum, is for Sandy:

Video of Pompeii HERE (later today).

As Robyn says, Pompeii is so evocative: you really get a sense of how regular Romans lived 2,000 years ago. My favourite single moment was seeing a built-in door mat (a mosaic) saying “Beware of Dog” in Latin ("Cave Canem"). The dog has its teeth bared and wears a collar and chain, and it looks just like a guard dog today. Amazing.

We arrived in Rome on Tuesday, and had our first afternoon nap of the trip. Then we walked and walked, for several hours. As in Paris, there are many Roma people begging – usually women, bent over on the street in complete submission, faces hidden, shaking their money cups ever so slightly. This is uncomfortable to admit, but both Frank and I feel strong repulsion. It’s certainly a big difference from the “Canadian” style of begging we are used to, wherein people make eye contact with you and directly ask you for money. Still, why are our hearts so closed towards them? We’re still puzzling on that one; any anthropological analyses would be welcomed. Trish??

Wednesday was our first full day in Rome. I think our tiredness (and low blood sugar) plus the stresses of being in a crowded, unfamiliar city were showing, because it was also the day of our only Real Fight of the trip. Frank says this shows our continued evolution as a couple, since we fought much earlier into our first trip to Europe two years ago :  ) Not to worry: all is repaired.

The coliseum was fascinating but disturbing. It could hold over 50,000 spectators; I just checked, and that’s the same capacity as BC Place. It’s an amazing monument to the Roman Empire’s enlightenment and, equally, to its barbarism. Frank was nauseous when the audio guide mentioned that they would spritz perfume around the stadium to cover the stench of death during gladiator competitions.

Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of the Roman ruins (that are everywhere) is how they were reused and recycled after the fall of the Empire. Roman temples and basilicas (courthouses) became churches. And sometimes, the ruins were built into and around more-modern (relatively-speaking) buildings. The Theatre of Marcellus, built exactly 2,000 years ago, is incorporated into apartments that are currently inhabited:

Yesterday -- Thursday -- was Vatican City day. In the Sistine Chapel, the soothing murmuring of the crowd was punctuated every few minutes by the young guards shushing people full-force, and bellowing “BE SILENT! NO PHOTO!” We swear they were smirking at their own intentional irony.

One of the consolations of middle age is the confidence to know what you like, and the freedom to like what you like, even in the realm of art. Seeing the Sistine Chapel was certainly another “Are we really here?” moment. And, of course, Michelangelo’s intellectual brilliance and technical talent in executing such a huge project can’t be denied. Still, in the busy-ness of the distant ceiling, looking six stories up, it took us a while to spot that most-famous of scenes: God breathing life into Adam. And somehow, the whole scenario wasn’t as moving as we’d thought it would be. (The thundering guards probably didn’t help.) Yet, several paintings in the Vatican Museum were extra-ordinary. We especially liked Caravaggio’s work, with deeply-human, not idealized, faces full of real emotion, dramatic lighting, and complex stories to tell.

Now that’s what I’m talking about. 

One last thing. We can’t resist telling you about the two “D’oh!!” tourist moments we witnessed yesterday. Thankfully, neither gaffe was ours! ?

Story #1: We’re in the Vatican City, gawking at the opulence of St. Peter’s Basilica…the largest and probably most famous Christian church in the world. We hear an English-speaking woman ask her private Italian tour guide…”What’s the name of this church again?” I saw the look in the guide’s eyes as she answered, and it was not pretty. Perhaps the woman should have asked this tech-savvy nun instead:

I want to make a pun involving the phrase "We'll have nun of that" but it's just not quite coming together! I'm tired, okay?? :  )

Story #2: We’re at a charming Jewish-Italian restaurant in the old Ghetto area (thanks for the suggestion, Jan!). The menu carefully explains (in bad but understandable English) that it’s a kosher restaurant, so no dairy is served. There’s a young American couple sitting near us at an outdoor table. The young man comes back after a few minutes away. “Honey, I got cash, AND gelato, the flavor you like”. He plunks two cups of gelato on the restaurant’s table. The waiters tersely explain that he needs to get the ice cream OFF the table; they can’t eat it there. The rest of the diners nearby (including us) squirm in an awkward mixture of contempt and sympathy for the young man and his faux pas. His wife chides him in front of all of us…

So: one last full day in Rome, then a layover in Paris tomorrow, then home. Our last post will be from Vancouver. I wonder what we’ll see and learn today…

Much love, Wendy and Frank

Happy Thanksgiving from the Italian Riviera

Hi Everyone,

It seems strange to think of everyone getting ready for Thanksgiving when, of course, no one celebrates it here. We watched the sun set from our balcony; that's the Isle of Capri in the distance. Frank says "Beautiful view; still missing you"!

We left Florence yesterday morning and arrived midday in Naples (Napoli) which was absolutely overwhelming. Talk about regional differences! The more northern cities have been cleaner, quieter and more orderly than Naples, but also less friendly. Travel guru Rick Steves call the city of a million "appalling yet captivating". Best moment: seeing a city bus come to a halt so the driver could call to his friend, who was crossing the street, and grasp his hand through the side window. Worst moment: trying to cross the street in front of the train station. Terrifying! We only stayed long enough to walk around a bit and eat pizza (it is, after all, the birth place of pizza) and gelato. At the gelato place, the owner spotted the travel guide in Frank's cargo pocket. "Ricky! Ricky Steves!" he exclaimed, and gestured for us to come back inside, where he proudly showed us a photo of himself with RS. He made a real effort to communicate with us, and vice versa, despite limited knowledge of each other's language. And it kinda worked.

Naples is a real live city, no tourist pretenses. Lots of people out shopping for dinner at seafood and vegetable stalls:

We took the commuter train (on high alert for pickpockets; none spotted) to the resort town where we are staying, Sorrento. Mount Vesuvius dominated the landscape on the way. We passed some areas that could only be described as slums: not just picturesquely-peeling stucco, but buildings that look like they could fall down in a strong wind and living conditions that looked downright squalid. We found it kind of shocking, given that this is Europe...but then again, Europeans visiting Vancouver would surely be horrified by the Downtown East Side.

The weather is fantastic right now, sunny and warm enough to swim in the hotel's pool, but not too hot. The hotel kind of reminds us of a more-upscale version of Fawlty Towers: lots of jolly aging Brits who eat breakfast and dinner in the dining room here, and a waiter with a forward-leaning gait that reminds us of Manuel. It's nice, and at the same time, just the tiniest bit creepy.

Sorrento derives its name from the sirens of Homer's myth: supposedly, that part of The Odyssey took place right around here. We didn't know the scenery would be this gorgeous: craggy and lush, with surprises around every corner. This is what we saw when we looked into the ravine below a bridge we were crossing:

This video shows the view around the "Marina Piccola" (Small Harbour) in Sorrento. Now, you won't believe it, but the schmaltzy musical accompaniment was NOT added by us, but was really being played by a young accordianist while Frank was filming. Enjoy! :  )

Okay, one last story. Our best part of today was making friends with a small family sitting next to us at the seaside restaurant at lunch time. Their little boy, Salvatore (nicknamed "Sasi"), aged 2-1/2, was unbelievably sweet and friendly. Once again, we all made ourselves understood with a combination of Italian, English, gestures, smiles, and eye contact. I think I have a new business idea: second language instruction by pre-schoolers. Sasi patiently taught me several words and stole my heart big time while doing so. That's me saying "Awww!" (as in, Awww, he's soooo cute!):

I love reading people's comments about my writing, though, judging by the length of this post, I think they're going to my head! Almost all the photos and video, their selection, editing for content, and all technical know-how is Frank's doing. It's a true joint effort.

We have much to be thankful for, best of all, two wonderful kids and so many family members and friends that we adore. Thinking of you all,

Wendy and Frank

Hello All

It is Thursday, just after 6 pm, as I start to write this. We’re sitting in the front garden of our very charming B and B in Florence, sipping beer and prosecco (guess who is drinking which!) and eating potato chips.

We’ve had a busy few days; hence the lack of blog posts. In part, we’ve been pre-occupied getting used to the idea that we won’t see Olivia probably until after she’s back from Borneo. That’s right: she’s going to Borneo! Doesn’t that sound even more exotic than just plain old Indonesia? We have felt so blessed to have our wonderful friends and family reaching out to our kids during this strange time when so much is happening while we are away.

Siena was very enjoyable. We kept thinking of Matthew Sherbuck, who proclaimed it his favourite place in Italy. Doesn’t this view of the city in the evening light look like a painting?

Just when we were thinking there aren’t that many differences any more in our global village…we came across three boys and their “coach” practicing drum-and-flag routines related to their neighbourhood (one of 14) in Siena. This rivalry, linked to a crazy horse race in the main city square, dates back to mediaeval times. So, yeah, cultural differences are not completely passé…yet.



On Wednesday, we had a wild ride getting the rental car back to Pisa (from Siena). The autostrade was stressful and confusing and we “took the long way home”; we caught our train with about 90 seconds to spare. By the time we finally got to Florence (via train) we practically had to RUN through crowded streets to get to the Uffizi gallery on time. By the time we reached our B and B at 8:30 at night we were pretty much ready to collapse. As someone said to me recently, though (Judi? Trish?): this is a first world problem and we are fortunate to have it.

Today – Thursday – was much calmer. We strolled (okay…fought the crowds) through the streets of Florence and saw Michelangelo’s “David” this afternoon. I thought of my Auntie Jan who exclaimed over his anatomy recently! No photos of the real thing are allowed, of course, but here’s a tongue-in-cheek variation in the garden of the gallery.

Everywhere, there is life captured in stone. Look at this photo, a close-up of the sculpture “The Rape of the Sabine Women” by Giambologna. The abductor’s hand presses into cold marble as if it is warm flesh.

So: soon we are off to dinner and then, tomorrow, to Naples and the Amalfi Coast, by train. And we will talk to Olivia by Skype one more time tomorrow morning before she leaves for six months : (

Wendy and Frank

Hi Everyone,

Well, we've now had a sleep to absorb Olivia's news about leaving for 6 months in a few days.  Frank's still sleeping, despite the copious church bells ringing in Siena's cathedral, which is the largest we've seen yet.

We explored Volterra pretty thoroughly yesterday before leaving. We loved the Etruscan museum. What is "Etruscan", you ask?? They were a short-lived but powerful and prosperous civilization that dominated the scene in Italy -- and indeed the Mediterranean -- until about 300 BC. Their art and ideas heavily influenced the Romans. How come I don't remember learning about them in school?? See the photo of one of the thousands of cremation urns in the museum: middle-aged husband and wife, lounging together, looking so human and real, wrinkles and all. It was gorgeous and moving, like connecting with people from 2400 years ago.

Getting to our hotel in Siena, driving and navigating through a labyrinthine mediaeval city, was another miracle, half luck and half skill. Okay, maybe 2/3 luck and 1/3 skill! By the time we got settled and then walked into the old city, it was about 5:30. We ordered a drink at a bar ringing the "campo" (square) and watched the sun set. It was truly spine-tingling.

While sitting in the square, we saw a middle-aged man with a pot belly walk by, wearing a shirt that said "Amazing at multiple positions". My barely-managed giggles were probably amplified by the fact that I had just had a VERY strong drink. Let's take hard alcohol (campari) and mix it with bubbly wine (prosecco) and nothing else, and call it a "spritzer". Ha!

Here's our summary of bests and worsts so far, jointly composed:

Bests:

• the scenery
• learning about history
• the art
• gelato!!
• most of the people

Worsts:

• squat toilets (really???)
• the super-crowded places we've been: Venice and San Gimignano
• bottled water
• a few of the people

Did I mention squat toilets?

So, today we'll see the sights of Siena. We have reluctantly accepted that we're not going to get to Lucca, the only city in Italy still completely ringed by the original city wall. It comes highly recommended by our travel guru, Rick Steves, and more importantly, by Patricia, but we are really sticking to the slower-is-better ideal.

Hi all,

Olivia just got word today from Canada World Youth (CWY) that she will be leaving in four days...  First to Nova Scotia for three months, then another three months in Indonesia.  Needless to say, she is going to be very busy with last minute packing, vaccinations and paper work. Olivia, Wendy and I are both excited and nervous about the suddenness of this separation. With us in Italy, we will not be able to say a proper face-to-face goodbye.  Perhaps we can travel to Nova Scotia for a real send off in January before she leaves for Indonesia. CWY has asked Olivia to do whatever fundraising she can for the trip.  However, CWY does not expect that this will be much given the four day notice.  So, if you can spare even a few bucks (please don't feel pressured... CWY will be just fine without it) click the button below (it is a secure link to PayPay - credit cards accepted).



Frank

Deep in the Heart of..Tuscany

We’re writing now from the heart of Tuscany, and it’s been a challenging – okay, and interesting – couple of days. I keep repeating my good – and well-travelled – friend Susan’s words, like a mantra: don’t expect travelling to be fun every minute.

We left Cinque Terre on Saturday morning, after Frank had spent 34 hours in bed. He was still a bit shaky and sweaty, but we made our way to Pisa by train. I almost hate to admit it, but the Leaning Tower was thrilling. I’m sure every tourist says this, but: it REALLY leans! Rennell, we thought of you as a teenager, driving by it with well-meaning Germans who thought it was “too touristy” to merit a stop.

Shortly after I descended from the Tower (Frank, still feeling the afore-mentioned symptoms, wisely stayed on terra firma), I started feeling sick. Getting to the airport and picking up our rental car took FOREVER (or at least 2 hours) by which time I had made a spectacle of myself, vomiting on one of the main walkways into the airport. Luckily, my symptoms were a tiny fraction of Frank’s – I think that was because of the vaccine I took in February before going to Mexico. I felt pretty much recovered by this (Sunday) morning.

I have no idea how we managed to get to our destination: we had a crappy map and I, as navigator, was somewhat lacking in precision, due to my preoccupation with my digestive tract. We had only GPS 1.0 (Global Positioning SUN) to tell us which direction we were going. Miraculously, we eventually made it out of Pisa and found our way to Volterra, where we are staying.

Once again, this place looked especially good given the obstacles to getting here! But really, it is a gorgeous B and B/vineyard, and the Tuscan countryside is breathtaking. We both feel incredibly fortunate to be able to stay in a place like this.

Today, we explored a nearby, Mediaeval town, San Gimignano. 14 of 72 towers still stand within the town’s walls, built by wealthy and feuding merchant families and dating back to the 900’s. If it weren’t for the hordes of filthy tourists packed into the narrow streets, it would have been utterly charming! Even so, if you try hard, you can imagine what life was like there 1100 years ago.

Volterra means land of the clouds, because it’s up high on a hill and is often socked in. The skies opened…again…this afternoon. We tried to explore Volterra but came back to the B and B, defeated by the sheets of rain and needing a change of clothes. We almost cancelled our dinner reservations, but drove back into town. Here’s what we ate: ricotta and spinach gnocchi with truffles (first time for truffles); stuffed pigeon (me; first time) and wild boar (Frank; he got to keep the plate). We figured it was okay to have a nice dinner given how much we’ve SAVED on food the last couple of days by being sick…

So…not all peaches and cream, especially because we’ve been missing our kids and feeling very far away from them the last couple of days. But still, quite an adventure we won’t forget.

All our best wishes,

Wendy and Frank

One Last Post from Cinque Terre

Hi All,

It's been a quieter day in Cinque Terre: Frank's been horribly sick with either food poisoning or stomach bug. He's been in bed since about 8 pm last night (22 hours ago) and just ate his first food since then, a boiled egg and a banana. It was a little worriseome because he had such extreme chills/shaking and a fever, on top of  other symptoms that will go unnamed.

I stayed pretty closeby, but I did take the train 3 towns over, to Vernazza. Castle ruins, azure sea, striated cliffs, a maze of steps and alleys, sherbet-coloured buildings...you know, ho hum. Sadly, I have no photos to post as the camera was void of the memory card :  (

In the late afternoon after returning from Vernazza, with Frank cheering me on from the windows of our room, I swam in the Ligurian Sea, which was warm and clear. The rocks were trickyto navigate getting in and out, but I watched the other swimmers for a while and worked up my courage, and it was worth it.

So: tomorrow, we are off on the train to Pisa to pick up a car and tour around Tuscany for four days. Keep your fingers crossed that Frank's energy returns overnight!

Wendy XO

Buongiorno All,

We’ve made our way to the sunny northwest coast, specifically, the “Cinque Terre”, five tiny villages perched on the hillside above the Ligurian Sea and connected by walking paths. Last night we re-experienced the meaning of adventure, which is “something that sucks until it’s over” (i.e., then it’s an adventure!). After our third train ride of the day, we arrived in the dark in tiny Riomaggiore. Now came time to find the proprietor of the “affite camera” – private room we – had rented. We go to the Bar Centrale and I ask the bartender if he knows Simonetta and “Camere Paradiso”. He scratches his head, asks his brother, who makes some sexual innuendo about how he is paradise…while commenting on my eyes. The brothers discuss and, in a mixture of Italian, English and French (which I can barely hear above “AC/DC” blaring on the sound system) he says it’s a town of 1,000 people and he knows everyone and he doesn’t know Simonetta or her rooms. “Maybe you’re in the wrong town” he says; “It happens all the time” he says. Well, of course, I go to my familiar old reaction, and assume I must have screwed up. I hurry back to Frank: “Maybe we’re in the wrong town!” I say. His eyes widen. The “what ifs” start in my head: What if we have to get back on the train? Or worse, sleep on the beach? Much rigamarole follows. There’s a phone number, but it’s only on the webpage and so we have to get internet access to retrieve it. We buy a drink from the bar to use their wifi. We find the phone number, but of course we have no phone. In my head I am whining “Why can’t we go back to the olden days of landlines, with a pay phone on every corner?” Frank has the excellent idea of calling by Skype. Magically, after a few tries, he gets through, but the man on the other end can’t hear us. After much back-and-forth in broken English and barely-there Italian, he says “Meet me at the centre”. We don’t really know where the centre is, but we start walking back down the hill, and we hear a disembodied voice calling “Wendy, Wendy, Wendy”. We spin around: where is he? Finally, we see: he’s on a balcony, watching for us. He comes down to meet us. He is older and warm and kind; his name is Andreas but everyone calls him “Tuba”. He mimes playing the tuba. Simonetta is his daughter-in-law, he explains. He takes my bag and we follow him through the tiny alleys, with him making kind conversation all the way: he has been to Canada three times, on ships, including once to Vancouver. He leads us through tiny pedestrian-only alleys and up steep stairs (see photo) to a tiny, perfect, immaculate apartment and shows us around proudly. Now, I’m sure this little apartment would be almost as charming if it hadn’t been such an, um, adventure to find it, but the huge flood of relief we felt had to add to our positive impressions! Thanks to Tuba making arrangements, we had a late dinner last night at a restaurant right on the marina, which is also tiny, perfect and immaculate. (See photo; the view is from our window!!!!) Every single item on the menu was, of course, seafood, all locally and freshly caught. Yum, yum. Alas, Frank has been battling a cold and last night it came in full force, but luckily it is centred in his nose and his chest is clear. Off we go to start our walking and exploring.

Wendy and Frank

PS -- After the photos, there's more..and sorry about the cock-eyed photos -- for some reason they load in the wrong orientation...

 

We wrote this in the morning but didn’t get a chance to post it, so here’s an update written in the early evening. We headed off to walk to the next town, only to find…there was a landslide and the trail has been closed since Monday! Plan B: we explored “our” town, Riomagiorre, then took the train to the next town over, Manorola (see photo). It’s the shortest train ride you can imagine: when the schedule showed 2 minutes, we thought that was an exaggeration, but it’s truly 2 minutes, through a tunnel, with the 2 towns on either side. Even with the trail closed, we managed tol have an interesting day with lots of walking. One of our photos shows the very steep hills lined with terraces that are about 6 to 8 feet wide. They were made over the centuries by people stacking the rocks with no mortar; Tuba says there are about 1,000 km of these walls in the area. Amazing – see photo. The most interesting thing we ate today was a mixture of deep-fried seafood, including teeny fish about 1.5” long that we presume were not dressed in any way. I mean, can you imagine gutting a fish that small? : ) So tonight we will turn in early (a) because of Frank’s cold and (b) in hopes that at least parts of the trail will be open tomorrow and we can get an early start. I can’t believe how far away everything seems right now: I know I wrote a “to do” list before we left for when when we get back, and it was long, but I can only remember 2 things on it!

Wendy and Frank

From Padua/Padova

Hi Everyone,

We left Venice this afternoon by train for the prosperous little city of Padua (Padova). By today, we were ready to move on. Here's our summary of Venice versus Padua -- kind of like Edmonton versus Calgary! :  )

Venice: "Pinch-me-are-we-really-here?"

Padua: "Where??"

Venice: a "decaying Disneyland" (to quote travel writer Rick Steves) crammed full of tourists.

Padua:  a real city with real people.

Venice: hardly a tree in sight!

Padua: green, with space to breathe.

Venice: EVERYONE speaks English.

Padua: not so much. More stressful as a result, but more adventureous too.

Here's Frank's summary: "After 2 days, Venice makes you want to run away; Padua makes you want to stay!"

Patricia, you are hereby granted rights to say "I told you so!" :  )

Padua has been a university town for 800 years!!!! This is where Galileo Galilei developed his ideas that the earth revolves around the sun, and not vice versa. We went to the university district and watched some brand-new graduates being hazed. This included running a gauntlet of family members and friends and being smacked on the back 'til red. It was weird but fascinating to be gawking at these shenanigins. We will try to figure out how to post a short video.

Had a great dinner in an "osteria" where little English is spoken. It's very discombobulating to not know the rules: do you go up to the bar to order or let them come to you? how come they didn't give us menus? what the HELL does the handwritten menu say?? do we ask for the bill or will they bring it? Still, we communicated enough to have a really great dinner and leave in good graces.

Frank is now snoring beside me: this is my sign to sign off.

Wendy  and Frank XO

Hi Everyone,
It’s early evening on Monday, and we’ve been in Venice for about 24 hours now. We just got off a tour of the grand canal via Vaporetto (public waterbus) that, near the end, included a dramatic show of thunder, lightning and a rainstorm that was, well, “magnifico”! But…as I write this, the skies are clearing. Good thing, because I suspect super-heavy rainfall spells trouble for Venice. Already some canal-side routes were flooding! The sky and the light right now are spectacular and pink and gold, like a Dutch Masters’ painting.
Venice is crammed with tourists (you know, OTHER tourists!), shockingly walkable, and just surreal. St. Mark’s square and all its sites were amazing, of course, but I think one of the things I’ve enjoyed most so  far is listening to and watching the everyday sights and sounds outside our hotel room windows: gondoliers and boats drivers calling to each other and skillfully navigating the twists and turns of the narrow canals; church bells ringing; voices in all languages.
Olivia, you have to check out the paintings of Heronymous (sp?) Bosch: he was like a mediaeval Salvador Dali!
One sleep gone and 20 left…Time for dinner!
Good Wishes to All,
Wendy (and Frank)

Here we in the LAX first class lounge. This is my first time flying first class (OK Wendy claims it is only business class) but still… The things I am enjoying ordered in importance least to most:

• Priority seating
• First class lounge
• Free WIFI
• Bigger seats
• FREE Beer (and peanuts) !!

 Woot! How cool is that??

Hello Everyone,

It's one week today until Frank and I leave for Italy. We plan to write a bit every couple of days so that those of you who are interested can keep tabs on us and what we're doing.

Wendy

Hope you enjoy following our itinerary!

Frank